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Modelling Tips & Guides / Baseboards
« Last post by Martin on August 23, 2024, 15:29:28 PM »Baseboards ( & Legs ):
Where possible l use laser cut baseboards from manufacturers such as Grainge & Hodder Lasercutting or Tim Horn Baseboards. These come flat packed and only need a hammer and glue to build (items such as clamps are advisable if you have them).
Although more expensive than hand building the baseboards, the difference is not that great, bearing in mind the time involved in building your own as compared to the laser cut versions. The biggest advantage of laser cut baseboards though is in their weight, when built you could pick them up in one hand, (for example a 1200mm x 450mm built using method below weighed 5.75kg, the equivalent size laser cut board from Grainge and Hodder weighed only 2.8kg). Strength is not lost, despite the use of thin plywood (normally 6mm), when built they are extremely rigid and as they are exact in their dimensions, joining one board to another presents no problems, alignment holes are pre cut so that they always match (unless you have made a cock up
building them!). These companies will also make boards to a particular size for little extra cost (as l had with my 0 gauge portable layout).
That said, l understand that many would baulk at the cost of buying these laser cut boards (although difference is not that great, especially when considering the time saving element) and prefer a more traditional way of building them, so l have outlined how to construct your own layout baseboards to a good standard with only minimal woodworking experience (this method has been used two construct two 48" x 18" baseboards for the Clubs 'Fern Green' layout).
I have included a list of tools that would make construction a lot easier!
Section 1, some of the tools that you would fine useful in construction.
Section 2, building the baseboard and materials needed.
Section 3, joining more than one baseboard together.
Section 4, construction of legs for your baseboards.
Baseboards can be built to any size, it is after all, up to you. But l would recommend that 4ft x 2ft is the maximum size. Anything up to this size is easier to handle, will easily fit in a family car and not be too heavy (bear in mind a 4ft x 3ft board is a third larger, not only in physical size but also in mass).
All details can apply to the construction of baseboards for a portable layout or even if the layout will be 'fixed' in a room.
I have used/listed materials that are available from B & Q for ease, but you can use other suppliers. Dimensions are based on those materials from B & Q, if using alternatives you may need to adjust accordingly.
I will describe the use of just two sizes of timber, for the construction of both the baseboard frame and for the legs, with one thickness of plywood for the top. You can use thicker plywood if you wish, it would just add to the overall weight.
Section 1 - Recommended Tools
You do not need to have all of these, but it would help, especially if you are making a number of them.
• Tenon Saw or Hand Saw
• Carpenters Square / Mitre Box (to ensure square edges of the 70mm x 18mm)
• Pencil
• Electric Drill and a 2mm drill bit
• Countersink bit (optional)
• Screwdriver (Pozi2)
• Clamps (optional)
• Sandpaper or sanding block
• 6mm or 8mm drill bit for bolt holes
• 6mm or 8mm bolts/penny washers/winged nuts
• Good quality wood glue (optional)
• 25mm or larger spade wood bit (optional)
• Alignment dowels, if constructing more than one baseboard (recommended but optional)
Note: Whichever size bolts/nuts you choose, use the same size throughout. Penny washers prevent the bolt/nut being pulled into the timber and winged nuts make it easier to tighten by hand.
Section 2 - Baseboard Construction & Materials
Materials:
• 70mm x 18mm PSE Timber
• 6mm or 9mm Plywood Sheet (avoid using MDF)
• M4 x 25mm Screws
• M4 x 40mm Screws
• Good quality wood glue (recommended but optional)
Construction:
Important - Sand any rough edges as you go!
• Cut plywood top to desired size (or have it cut for you) and double check the dimensions.
• Cut 2 pieces of 70mm x 18mm to match length of the plywood top for the sides.
• Clamp, glue and fix with the 25mm screws the two side pieces of 70mm x 18mm on edge to the plywood top (drill a pilot holes to avoid splitting and use a countersink bit for neatness).
• Turn baseboard upside down and measure the gap in-between the two side pieces now fixed
• For a baseboard approx 4ft x 2ft cut 4 pieces of 70mm x 18mm to the length, measured in-between the sides.
• Fix 1 piece of the cut 70mmx 18mm to each end, fixing through the side pieces using 40mm screws and glue to the plywood top with the 25mm screws (drill a pilot hole first to avoid splitting and use a countersink bit for neat finish).
• If you are running cables under the baseboard, drill holes in the remaining two pieces (use a 25mm spade bit, or larger) as it is easier to do it now, rather than when they are fixed to the plywood top.
• Space out and fix the remaining pieces of 70mm x 18mm with 40mm screws through the sides.
• Turn baseboard over and screw down the top to the center pieces using 25mm screws (l would recommend not gluing these just yet incase they foul point motors etc.
Finally, give the baseboard a light sanding, and a coat (or two) of paint/sealer.
Section 3 – Connecting more than one baseboard
• Position two baseboards together, with the plywood top flush and clamp firmly.
• Drill two 6mm or 8mm holes, one each side, through the clamped baseboard frames, approx 125mm in from the edge (this will allow for the positioning of the legs described in Part 2).
• Two 6mm or 8mm nuts, washers and bolts can now be fitted,
• Whilst bolted together, drill 2mm pilot holes for the alignment dowels approx 50mm/75mm further in than the bolt holes (check the manufacturers instructions for exact fitting details, as styles do vary).
• If holes are required for wiring, they can be done now.
Section 4 - Leg construction & Materials
Materials Used:
• 44mm x 44mm PSE timber
• 70mm x 18mm PSE timber
• M4 x 40mm Wood Screws
• Good Quality Wood Glue (optional)
• Adjustable feet (optional)
Cutting & Preparing (for 1 set of legs):
• Legs - 2off 44mm x 44mm x 1000mm (the height is up to personal choice and whether layout is portable or fixed (floor to elbow gives a good reference height)
• Leg Support Blocks - 2off 44mm x 44mm x 70mm or 90mm (dependent on depth of baseboard)
• Spacer Block - 1off 44mm x 44mm x 100mm (keep this as it can be used on other boards)
• Leg Bracing - 2off 70mm x 18mm x whatever the internal with of the baseboard is
• Lightly sand off all rough edges
Construction (for one set of legs)
• Place the 44mm x 44mm x 100mm spacer block in corner
• Place one of the 44mm x 44mm x 70mm or 90mm block, finger tight, next to it and clamp to baseboard side ( l placed a piece of 120gsm paper between the two as they were not smooth )
• Remove the 44mm x 44mm x 100mm block and test fit one of the 44mm x 44mm x 1000mm legs (if okay, continue, if too loose, the clamped block needs adjustment go back to start).
• Drill two holes through baseboard side into the clamped block and fix with 40mm screws.
• Remove leg and do the same again for the other corner.
• With baseboard upside down on flat surface, now insert the 44mm x 44mm x 1000mm legs , using a square, align legs and clamp.
• Mark on leg 305mm/12inch from foot end, this is where your lower cross piece will go (l suggest 305mm but this can be a height from floor of your choosing).
• Measure distance from outside of one leg to the other (it should be the same length as your pieces of 70mm x 18mm timber you cut earlier).
• Check legs are still square to the baseboard.
• Check width again and if correct, cut a piece of 70mm x 18mm to that width and clamp in the position previously marked on the legs.
• Check the width once more and also check that it is square to the legs, if correct drill and screw in place with two 40mm screws in each leg.
• Place the second cross piece of 70mm x 18mm flush with underside of baseboard and clamp to the legs
• Check width and squareness once more, then drill and screw using 40mm screws as before.
• Mark baseboard and legs so they can be matched after removal.
• Remove all clamps, legs will be snug but should come out (a bit of rubbing with fine grit sandpaper with make them smother to put in and out if needed)
• Screws can all be eased off and glue applied to all screwed joints if required.
• With legs removed, check for any splinters or roughness and sand if required then paint/seal (l would recommend sanding a small chamfer on each top of leg as this aids location).
• If Fitting adjustable feet, depending on type, follow manufacturers instructions (optional)
Note: In most cases, construct sets of legs for the ends of the baseboards, two sets of legs for the first baseboard and one set of legs for other baseboards. This may alter dependent on size/shape of layout or for home/fixed layouts.
Additional Bracing (optional):
Additional bracing can be added to one side or both, from the baseboard to leg ( l have found that on one side only to be more than enough ).
Grainge & Hodder can supply parts for leg bracing if desired using the pre-cut holes in the baseboard sides. A similar effect can be produced to that shown on their website by overlaying two pieces of plywood.
For bracing of legs for baseboards using the 70mm x 18mm sides;
• With legs fitted in position, measure and mark a line 275mm from the edge of baseboard and 25mm from bottom edge.
• From the 25mm line, measure down the leg 275mm
• Cut two pieces of 38mm x 18mm x 380mm PSE (approx)
• Clamp one piece behind the first mark, and drill through from the side, fit a 6mm or 8mm bolt and winged nut, but do not tighten.
• Clamp the other piece on the leg and drill through fitting a 6mm or 8mm bolt and winged nut, again do not tighten.
• Bring the two pieces together (they will overlap) clamp in a straight line, and fix (screw/glue with 25mm screws).
• Tighten up the two winged nuts, your leg should now be pretty rigid.
• Mark each brace to each leg, as they may differ slightly in construction.
I hope the above has been of use, l have read it over a number of times, but there are probably still errors in it or l have missed something out (so apologies if l have)!
If you need further explanation please do ask. The baseboards for 'Fern Green' are currently at the Club, for anyone who wants a look.
Remember the modellers mantra... mearsure twice, cut once, then do it again,because you messed the first one up
Martin
Where possible l use laser cut baseboards from manufacturers such as Grainge & Hodder Lasercutting or Tim Horn Baseboards. These come flat packed and only need a hammer and glue to build (items such as clamps are advisable if you have them).
Although more expensive than hand building the baseboards, the difference is not that great, bearing in mind the time involved in building your own as compared to the laser cut versions. The biggest advantage of laser cut baseboards though is in their weight, when built you could pick them up in one hand, (for example a 1200mm x 450mm built using method below weighed 5.75kg, the equivalent size laser cut board from Grainge and Hodder weighed only 2.8kg). Strength is not lost, despite the use of thin plywood (normally 6mm), when built they are extremely rigid and as they are exact in their dimensions, joining one board to another presents no problems, alignment holes are pre cut so that they always match (unless you have made a cock up
building them!). These companies will also make boards to a particular size for little extra cost (as l had with my 0 gauge portable layout).
That said, l understand that many would baulk at the cost of buying these laser cut boards (although difference is not that great, especially when considering the time saving element) and prefer a more traditional way of building them, so l have outlined how to construct your own layout baseboards to a good standard with only minimal woodworking experience (this method has been used two construct two 48" x 18" baseboards for the Clubs 'Fern Green' layout).
I have included a list of tools that would make construction a lot easier!
Section 1, some of the tools that you would fine useful in construction.
Section 2, building the baseboard and materials needed.
Section 3, joining more than one baseboard together.
Section 4, construction of legs for your baseboards.
Baseboards can be built to any size, it is after all, up to you. But l would recommend that 4ft x 2ft is the maximum size. Anything up to this size is easier to handle, will easily fit in a family car and not be too heavy (bear in mind a 4ft x 3ft board is a third larger, not only in physical size but also in mass).
All details can apply to the construction of baseboards for a portable layout or even if the layout will be 'fixed' in a room.
I have used/listed materials that are available from B & Q for ease, but you can use other suppliers. Dimensions are based on those materials from B & Q, if using alternatives you may need to adjust accordingly.
I will describe the use of just two sizes of timber, for the construction of both the baseboard frame and for the legs, with one thickness of plywood for the top. You can use thicker plywood if you wish, it would just add to the overall weight.
Section 1 - Recommended Tools
You do not need to have all of these, but it would help, especially if you are making a number of them.
• Tenon Saw or Hand Saw
• Carpenters Square / Mitre Box (to ensure square edges of the 70mm x 18mm)
• Pencil
• Electric Drill and a 2mm drill bit
• Countersink bit (optional)
• Screwdriver (Pozi2)
• Clamps (optional)
• Sandpaper or sanding block
• 6mm or 8mm drill bit for bolt holes
• 6mm or 8mm bolts/penny washers/winged nuts
• Good quality wood glue (optional)
• 25mm or larger spade wood bit (optional)
• Alignment dowels, if constructing more than one baseboard (recommended but optional)
Note: Whichever size bolts/nuts you choose, use the same size throughout. Penny washers prevent the bolt/nut being pulled into the timber and winged nuts make it easier to tighten by hand.
Section 2 - Baseboard Construction & Materials
Materials:
• 70mm x 18mm PSE Timber
• 6mm or 9mm Plywood Sheet (avoid using MDF)
• M4 x 25mm Screws
• M4 x 40mm Screws
• Good quality wood glue (recommended but optional)
Construction:
Important - Sand any rough edges as you go!
• Cut plywood top to desired size (or have it cut for you) and double check the dimensions.
• Cut 2 pieces of 70mm x 18mm to match length of the plywood top for the sides.
• Clamp, glue and fix with the 25mm screws the two side pieces of 70mm x 18mm on edge to the plywood top (drill a pilot holes to avoid splitting and use a countersink bit for neatness).
• Turn baseboard upside down and measure the gap in-between the two side pieces now fixed
• For a baseboard approx 4ft x 2ft cut 4 pieces of 70mm x 18mm to the length, measured in-between the sides.
• Fix 1 piece of the cut 70mmx 18mm to each end, fixing through the side pieces using 40mm screws and glue to the plywood top with the 25mm screws (drill a pilot hole first to avoid splitting and use a countersink bit for neat finish).
• If you are running cables under the baseboard, drill holes in the remaining two pieces (use a 25mm spade bit, or larger) as it is easier to do it now, rather than when they are fixed to the plywood top.
• Space out and fix the remaining pieces of 70mm x 18mm with 40mm screws through the sides.
• Turn baseboard over and screw down the top to the center pieces using 25mm screws (l would recommend not gluing these just yet incase they foul point motors etc.
Finally, give the baseboard a light sanding, and a coat (or two) of paint/sealer.
Section 3 – Connecting more than one baseboard
• Position two baseboards together, with the plywood top flush and clamp firmly.
• Drill two 6mm or 8mm holes, one each side, through the clamped baseboard frames, approx 125mm in from the edge (this will allow for the positioning of the legs described in Part 2).
• Two 6mm or 8mm nuts, washers and bolts can now be fitted,
• Whilst bolted together, drill 2mm pilot holes for the alignment dowels approx 50mm/75mm further in than the bolt holes (check the manufacturers instructions for exact fitting details, as styles do vary).
• If holes are required for wiring, they can be done now.
Section 4 - Leg construction & Materials
Materials Used:
• 44mm x 44mm PSE timber
• 70mm x 18mm PSE timber
• M4 x 40mm Wood Screws
• Good Quality Wood Glue (optional)
• Adjustable feet (optional)
Cutting & Preparing (for 1 set of legs):
• Legs - 2off 44mm x 44mm x 1000mm (the height is up to personal choice and whether layout is portable or fixed (floor to elbow gives a good reference height)
• Leg Support Blocks - 2off 44mm x 44mm x 70mm or 90mm (dependent on depth of baseboard)
• Spacer Block - 1off 44mm x 44mm x 100mm (keep this as it can be used on other boards)
• Leg Bracing - 2off 70mm x 18mm x whatever the internal with of the baseboard is
• Lightly sand off all rough edges
Construction (for one set of legs)
• Place the 44mm x 44mm x 100mm spacer block in corner
• Place one of the 44mm x 44mm x 70mm or 90mm block, finger tight, next to it and clamp to baseboard side ( l placed a piece of 120gsm paper between the two as they were not smooth )
• Remove the 44mm x 44mm x 100mm block and test fit one of the 44mm x 44mm x 1000mm legs (if okay, continue, if too loose, the clamped block needs adjustment go back to start).
• Drill two holes through baseboard side into the clamped block and fix with 40mm screws.
• Remove leg and do the same again for the other corner.
• With baseboard upside down on flat surface, now insert the 44mm x 44mm x 1000mm legs , using a square, align legs and clamp.
• Mark on leg 305mm/12inch from foot end, this is where your lower cross piece will go (l suggest 305mm but this can be a height from floor of your choosing).
• Measure distance from outside of one leg to the other (it should be the same length as your pieces of 70mm x 18mm timber you cut earlier).
• Check legs are still square to the baseboard.
• Check width again and if correct, cut a piece of 70mm x 18mm to that width and clamp in the position previously marked on the legs.
• Check the width once more and also check that it is square to the legs, if correct drill and screw in place with two 40mm screws in each leg.
• Place the second cross piece of 70mm x 18mm flush with underside of baseboard and clamp to the legs
• Check width and squareness once more, then drill and screw using 40mm screws as before.
• Mark baseboard and legs so they can be matched after removal.
• Remove all clamps, legs will be snug but should come out (a bit of rubbing with fine grit sandpaper with make them smother to put in and out if needed)
• Screws can all be eased off and glue applied to all screwed joints if required.
• With legs removed, check for any splinters or roughness and sand if required then paint/seal (l would recommend sanding a small chamfer on each top of leg as this aids location).
• If Fitting adjustable feet, depending on type, follow manufacturers instructions (optional)
Note: In most cases, construct sets of legs for the ends of the baseboards, two sets of legs for the first baseboard and one set of legs for other baseboards. This may alter dependent on size/shape of layout or for home/fixed layouts.
Additional Bracing (optional):
Additional bracing can be added to one side or both, from the baseboard to leg ( l have found that on one side only to be more than enough ).
Grainge & Hodder can supply parts for leg bracing if desired using the pre-cut holes in the baseboard sides. A similar effect can be produced to that shown on their website by overlaying two pieces of plywood.
For bracing of legs for baseboards using the 70mm x 18mm sides;
• With legs fitted in position, measure and mark a line 275mm from the edge of baseboard and 25mm from bottom edge.
• From the 25mm line, measure down the leg 275mm
• Cut two pieces of 38mm x 18mm x 380mm PSE (approx)
• Clamp one piece behind the first mark, and drill through from the side, fit a 6mm or 8mm bolt and winged nut, but do not tighten.
• Clamp the other piece on the leg and drill through fitting a 6mm or 8mm bolt and winged nut, again do not tighten.
• Bring the two pieces together (they will overlap) clamp in a straight line, and fix (screw/glue with 25mm screws).
• Tighten up the two winged nuts, your leg should now be pretty rigid.
• Mark each brace to each leg, as they may differ slightly in construction.
I hope the above has been of use, l have read it over a number of times, but there are probably still errors in it or l have missed something out (so apologies if l have)!
If you need further explanation please do ask. The baseboards for 'Fern Green' are currently at the Club, for anyone who wants a look.
Remember the modellers mantra... mearsure twice, cut once, then do it again,because you messed the first one up
Martin